When asked what remark gives him the greatest satisfaction, Bae Han-sung, 51, owner of the seolleongtang restaurant Cheongpungok Seolleongtang in northern Seoul, said that the compliment he liked most to hear was that the taste was always the same. Could a cook really prefer hearing that his food is consistent rather than delicious? “Taste is subjective,” Bae explained. “Even a famous restaurant may not appeal to everyone. But if customers say the food tastes the same every time they visit, that’s something I can control. That makes me happy.” The way Bae talks about cooking resembles a scientist discussing an experiment. His background helps explain why. Bae studied civil and environmental engineering and began his career at age 25 as an engineer at a construction company. He spent 15 years in the construction technology field, working for three different companies and climbing the corporate ladder. In 2015, however, he quit. “I wanted to be in charge of my own work, even if it was on a small scale,” he said. “At the company, my team could spend nights developing something, only for an e
